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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.